An experience full of adrenaline and stunning views
Mangart is another magnificent peak of the Julian Alps that is well worth climbing. After Triglav it was my second Slovenian summit, and I dare say it was perhaps an even better experience. At 2,679 m it is Slovenia's fourth-highest mountain, and on the summit you are standing right on the border with Italy.
Two routes lead directly to the summit — the Slovenska pot via ferrata (B, 1+) and the normal route. There are several other ways to reach Mangart though; the most interesting is probably the Via Italiana ferrata (C). The ridge route from the Slovenian side over the Kotovo saddle is also attractive for its views. We chose Slovenska pot because of time and my condition after shoulder surgery.
Getting there and the road
To avoid getting up before dawn, we slept in the car by an old military battery on the Italian side. In the morning we just crossed the border and drove a short way down the valley to where the mountain road built by the Italian army branches off. The road to the Mangart saddle is the highest road in Slovenia and carries a 10 EUR toll (2024). The barrier was already staffed at 6:30, though I doubt they are there all night :).
They told us there had been a rockfall and the upper part of the saddle was closed. The road is beautiful but very narrow, and full of ambitious cyclists during the day. Expect plenty of hairpins and tunnels, and you will definitely reverse into passing places a few times — on the way up and down.
Parking
We grabbed one of the last free spots, so I recommend not dawdling and setting off really early. Since the upper part of the road with additional parking is often closed, capacity is quite limited. Definitely do not park in the passing places along the road — sadly, most of the cars parked there had Czech plates…
Koča na Mangrtskem sedlu
On the way up you pass the Mangart hut, where you can get refreshments before or after the climb. We at least had a coffee and used the toilet (0.50 EUR fee). The hut also offers accommodation; book via the contacts on the Slovenian Alpine Club website.
Ascent via the Slovenska pot ferrata (B, 1+)
From the hut, follow the red markings to the junction below Mali Mangart. There you can branch off past the bivouac towards the Via Italiana. Continuing up, you reach the junction where you either stay on the normal route or turn onto the Slovenska pot ferrata. A few minutes of walking through scree brings you to the start, with several flat spots to put on your harness. The ferrata begins in a crack in the rock, and in my opinion the difficulty is closer to B/C. There are, however, several unprotected sections where a cable really should (and could) be.
You could say the worst sections in terms of exposure are the unprotected ones, so you will meet plenty of people without a ferrata set. Experienced climbers probably don't need one, but I would stress the importance of a helmet — rockfall is quite frequent here. Experienced climbers have nothing to fear, the sections aren't hard, but beginners may freeze when they look down. Strong wind and wet rock can complicate things further.
If you set out before mid-July, expect numerous snowfields that can cover the cable. In that period definitely bring crampons and ideally an ice axe. Higher up you'll encounter meltwater running over the rock, making the ferrata quite slippery in places.
The climb via Slovenska pot is good fun and takes about an hour and a half including a photo break. Near the top there is a viewpoint from which (weather permitting) you can see the whole border ridge with Italy. The protected sections have plenty of iron rungs and you clip over constantly. Overall there isn't that much climbing — it's more a combination of ferrata and walking terrain. At the top a fine summit cross awaits and, if the clouds allow, beautiful views of the Slovenian and Italian mountains.
Descending the normal route
From the summit, the natural choice is to descend via the normal route. I definitely don't recommend downclimbing the ferrata — it's unpleasant for climbers heading up, and anyone who has ever descended a ferrata knows it's a completely different game. The normal route is again rich in views, revealing the ridges towards Triglav. At the junction you can head back to the Mangart saddle or follow the ridge to the Kotovo saddle.
In mid-July you'll cross a few snowfields (some on your backside :D), otherwise the path is easy and densely lined with cables. The descent drags on, but offers views of the beautiful Italian lakes of Lago di Fusine. All in all it takes about an hour and a half to get back to the car.
Conclusion
Climbing Mangart is a great experience combining the adrenaline of a via ferrata with magnificent Alpine views. Whichever route you choose, Mangart will give you unforgettable moments in the heart of the Julian Alps. The whole loop takes 5–6 hours depending on your fitness and the number of photo stops.
Don't forget the drive back down the mountain road — and trust me, it's much busier in the afternoon than in the morning. Watch out for the cyclists; some of them think they're Tadej Pogačar :)