Warscheneck (2,388 m) lies in the Totes Gebirge (the “Dead Mountains”) and, thanks to its monumental summit cross and beautiful views, is a popular goal for Austrian and foreign hikers alike. The ascent is not technically difficult, but you will need a certain amount of fitness and experience. The upper part features a grade-B via ferrata, and the descent is a bit longer than it seems. The route is ideal in autumn — we climbed it in mid-October, and a week later the first snow fell.
By funicular from the car park — the one-day option
The one-day option uses the funicular railway. Arrive really early — both for the parking spaces and the operating hours. We start at the free car park by the bottom station of the Wurzeralmbahn. The funicular is not exactly cheap — a return trip costs 22.50 EUR per adult (2024) — but it cuts roughly 4 km and 630 vertical metres off the route. It takes you up to Wurzeralm (1,400 m), and you can watch the beautiful, changing landscape during the ride. The trip through the long dark tunnel is slightly reminiscent of the Kaprun tragedy, but I believe everyone has learned from it. Still, the cabin only has fire blankets and no extinguisher…
On foot from the car park
If you prefer a full-day hike, you can start directly from the car park at the bottom station. The route follows the ski slope along the funicular track up to Wurzeralm. This section is fairly demanding, alternating gentler and steeper stretches, and takes about two hours according to the map. In that case it makes sense to split the climb over two days and sleep before the final push.
From Wurzeralm to Warscheneck
There is a restaurant at the top station. Before setting off, make sure to check when the last cabin goes down, so you don't end up descending extra vertical metres after a tiring day (especially having paid for a return ticket).
Several routes lead to the summit; we chose a loop, partly because of the ferrata. From the top station you first descend briefly, then a fairly steep climb up the ski slopes begins — and it doesn't let go for a while. You can shortcut straight up the first slope past the junction, but it is seriously steep, so we take the gentler official route. Once above the treeline, views of the surrounding mountains open up. Soon the goal itself appears in full glory — Warscheneck. The view is deceptive though; you won't get close for quite some time. You keep climbing the slopes until you reach the top station of the Frauenkarlift chairlift.
If you use poles, it's time to stow them, because here the real Dead Mountains begin — sharp limestone. It starts with quite entertaining hopping across a boulder field leading to the rock. Then comes a steeper climb, occasionally on all fours, but after a short section the path levels out again and views open up over the western Totes Gebirge, including an amazing table mountain slightly reminiscent of the Grand Canyon.
The Warscheneck ferrata
A winding path gradually brings you to the last rock face, where the “ferrata” to the summit begins. The quotation marks are no mistake — it isn't really a via ferrata, but a path secured in places with cables and iron rungs. Experienced climbers don't need a ferrata set; beginners may appreciate one, though there aren't many places to clip in. We didn't have helmets, but chance is a bastard…
Officially it is a grade-B ferrata with climbing sections of 1− over roughly 200 metres. Don't expect hard climbing — there are a few airier protected passages. It's still a fairly fun route that can be done briskly, unless you get stuck behind a slow group of hikers like we did. You don't see the summit until the very end, but after the last (and probably hardest) section, the big summit cross finally appears.
The red-and-white cross invites photos, but in autumn the wind picks up and it's not the warmest place. You'll have the company of birds looking forward to every dropped bit of your snack. Although the summit tends to be busy, compared with other mountains (Drachenwand, for instance) there is plenty of room for everyone.
Descent via Toter Mann
For the descent we pick a different route, and I'm glad we did. The ferrata wasn't hard, but going down it would not be pleasant. We start descending towards Toter Mann as the weather and visibility deteriorate a little. The descent isn't difficult at first, just long — and with no views in the fog, fairly dull. Out of nowhere it steepens and you occasionally need your hands. The winding path slowly brings you to the saddle between Warscheneck and Toter Mann. Here the weather settled again, and climbing Toter Mann we had views once more.
The climb is about 30 vertical metres on a grass-lined path, then it's downhill again into the next saddle by Rote Wand. From there it's a classic Alpine descent — steep, twisting and slippery. Fairly soon you are down at the small lake Brunnsteinersee. Swimming is not allowed, but the photos you take here are truly superb.
From there only the final stretch to the funicular's top station remains — unpleasant at the end of the day because it climbs slightly (about 50 vertical metres) and feels endless. We just managed one quick standing beer, then hopped on the last cabin of the day back to the valley.
Tips and tricks
Parking: The car park at the bottom station is large, but very busy on weekends and in summer. I recommend arriving early in the morning to be sure of a spot.
Funicular: The Wurzeralmbahn runs year-round and makes the climb much easier. Check the official website for current operating hours and prices.
Refreshments: There are several mountain huts on Wurzeralm where you can rest and refuel. There is no water source along the route, so bring enough water on hot days.
Gear: You are in high mountains where the weather can change in a snap. I recommend carrying at least a spare waterproof jacket. The terrain isn't difficult; low trail shoes are enough.
Safety: The Warscheneck route is one of the physically tougher ones. The ferrata is easy, but protection exists only on short sections. Parts of the climb are quite airy, which may be uncomfortable for anyone afraid of heights. Check the weather before you set out and stay safe.